The makers of the Ooty varkey, a crusty cookie that looks like a little box with its top smashed in, want to ensure its uniqueness with the help of a geographical Indication tag. Unlike other baked goods, the varkey doesn’t rely on good looks to make an impression. Looking at the many homespun bakeries in the Nilgiris District is in the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu, not many of the workspaces do either. Baked to a golden brown, it looks more like a lump of dough that the chef forgot to finish shaping. But dip the varkey in a cup of tea or coffee, and it becomes instantly addictive.